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Published: Friday, December 1, 2006

'Icons From Sinai' offers insights into historic monastery

By Brenda Rees

Holy images of saints, Jesus and the Virgin Mary are greatly intertwined at the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Saint Catherine in Sinai, Egypt, the oldest functioning Christian monastery in the world --- a remote holy place where Moses is said to have received the Ten Commandments.

In November, the Getty Center opened its latest exhibition, "Holy Images, Hallowed Ground: Icons From Sinai" which features 43 icon paintings, manuscripts and liturgical objects as well as a re-creation of some areas of Saint Catherine's --- such as the main basilica --- to give viewers a better understanding of where these priceless artifacts came from. In addition, a ten-minute documentary film also gives visitors scenes of the ancient site, an Orthodox Easter service and interviews.

Overall, the exhibition hopes to capture a glimpse "for visitors to get the idea of what making a pilgrimage to Saint Catherine's would be like," says Kirsten Collins, co-curator of the exhibition who made numerous trips to the isolated location where it rains maybe twice a year.

Housing some of the world's oldest surviving Christian religious artifacts --- some dating from the 6th Century --- the monastery stands as a testimony to the faith and enduring history of the region. The Byzantine Emperor Justinian ordered its construction in the sixth century and because of its secluded location and stable climate, the monastery has remained largely unchanged for 1,400 years.

The monastery's librarian, Father Justin Sinaites, says there are 25 monks who currently live at the monastery whose daily life involves communal and private prayer as well as participating in daily orthodox services. The icons, he says, serve as religious messages, reminders and reflections.

"St. John of Damascus said that there is the written word of God and that there is the painted word of God," says Father Sinaites. "In fact, icon painters are still called writers by many."

"We'll miss the icons terribly at the monastery, but when they return, we will welcome them back by ringing all the bells. These icons are such a part of our lives at Sinai."

Communicating holy truths and sacred ideas, the icons from Sinai are striking in their simplicity as well as their complexity. Collins points out the dramatic image of "Saint Peter the Apostle" which dates to the sixth century. "Some suggest it was commissioned during the building of the monastery," she says noting the three smaller images above the saint.

While Christ is evident in the center circle (with the cross behind him), the identities of other figures are unknown. Is the woman the Virgin Mary? Who is the youth? John the Evangelist? Scholars still debate, and the mystery makes the icon certainly appealing.

Another notable icon, "Saint Catherine and the Virgin of the Burning Bush," depicts Mary with the Christ Child standing in the middle of the flaming bush. "It's a very orthodox view that says that just as the bush was on fire and did not consume the bush, so Mary was able to conceive Jesus in an immaculate state," says Collins.

She admits that determining which icons to bring to the Getty --- some have never left the monastery before --- was a difficult and daunting task.

Above all, she and the other Getty representatives wanted the icons to tell the story of Saint Catherine's Monastery, which has always welcomed the pious from all parts of the world. Pilgrims have come regularly to the monastery since the Middle Ages to participate in the services while scholars continue to comb the riches of the library which contains 3,500 ancient manuscripts in Greek, Arabic, Syriac, Latin, Coptic and Ethopian.

The rugged location has helped preserve not only the religious artifacts but also the continuing traditions that provide a stable foundation for Saint Catherine's to flourish and stand as a beacon to the past.

In that vein, Collins refers to the icon "Saint Marcarius and a Cherub" from the 13th century that shows a cherub leading a monk by the wrist. "This image," she says, "truly speaks about the monastery and the spiritual aspects of going out into the desert: How there is life in a place that seems lifeless."

"Holy Image, Hallowed Ground: Icons from Sinai" runs until March 4, 2007 at the J. Paul Getty Museum, 1200 Getty Center Drive, Los Angeles. Hours: Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Free admission; $8 parking fee. (310) 440-7300.



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