Originally hailing from Northern California, I am amazed at the transformation of the San Francisco Presidio over the last decade. This decommissioned U.S. Army Post dating back to the days of Blessed Junipero Serra became part of the Golden Gate National Park System in 1994 and offers history and hiking buffs much to enjoy within its 1,480 acres surrounded by sea, bay and city.
Established in 1776 when Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza III planted a cross on a bluff at present-day Fort Point, the Presidio chronicles more than 200 years of military history. It served as a major command post for troops who fought in the Mexican War, Civil War, Spanish-American War, WWI, WWII and the Korean War.
Time warp
Walking along the Presidio's 11 miles of hiking trails, especially if there is a bit of San Francisco's famous fog softening the landscape, it's easy to feel transported in time. One of the Presidio's oldest trails, Lovers' Lane, began as a footpath from the Spanish military post to Mission San Francisco de Asis, now known as Mission Dolores. The Presidio Officers' Club and Mission Dolores hold the distinction of being the only standing buildings left from Colonial San Francisco. The adobe walls and foundations of the two buildings were constructed with the combined labor of Spanish colonists and Bay Area Native Americans.
Visitors strolling along the one-mile Main Post Loop Walk pass by Civil War-era Officers Quarters, wooden barracks from the "Indian Wars," late 19th century brick Enlisted Men's Barracks and 1940s administration buildings bordering the Parade Ground. The Presidio Trust, a federal non-profit agency that has been charged with the task of making the Presidio self-sufficient by 2013, manages and leases out many of the structures to private businesses that agree to help in restoring and preserving the historic buildings.
Airplane enthusiasts will appreciate learning about aviation history at Crissy Field, home of the Coast Defense Air Station since the early 20th century. The first "dawn-to-dusk" transcontinental flight ended at Crissy Field in 1924, and Presidio army aviators in the 1920s set many cross-country and trans-Pacific records. Bordering a portion of Crissy Field is a 22-acre tidal marsh, part of the park's habitat restoration project along the bay side of the Presidio.
Sightseers interested in exploring the Presidio's ocean shoreline can board the PresidioGo bus, offering free transit to Baker Beach and other historic spots in the park. Hikers can take the 1.5-mile coastal trail from Baker Beach, featuring outcroppings of rare green sirpentinite, California's state rock.
Trip tips
The Presidio is easily accessible by car off both Highway 1 and Highway 101 in San Francisco. Drivers can enter through the Lombard Gate, park nearby and catch the PresidioGo bus. A visitor center located in the Presidio Officers' Club offers a wealth of information on park activities. Families with children may want to pick up the free "Kids on Trails" booklet for young hikers interested in going on the Presidio's Ecology Trail. The 2/3 mile (one way) trail path meanders through tall groves of cypress, eucalyptus and pine trees planted by the U.S. Army over 100 years ago.
Food and libations are available at the Presidio Bowling Alley, decorated with a colorful mural of the galaxy. On that note, Star Wars creator George Lucas is scheduled to open his new production headquarters at the Presidio this summer built on the site of the old Letterman Hospital. Future plans for Lucas' Letterman Digital Arts Center call for a high-tech Presidio museum and a seven-acre "Great Lawn" open to the public. For further information, contact the Presidio Visitor Center at (415) 561-4323. Websites about the Presidio include: www.nps.gov/prsf; www.parksconservancy.org; www.lucasfilm.com/inside/letterman/.
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