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"People change and forget to tell each other," author
Lillian Hellman once observed. Places change, too, sometimes
even disappear, and are often forgotten.
With this article, The Tidings begins an intermittent
series that profiles many of the Catholic sites and institutions
that were once well known in the City of the Angels and environs,
but have disappeared or are completely renovated. We invite
you to step back, reflect and appreciate what went before
--- and to cherish what remains.
LA
INMACULADA CHAPEL
First
opened by Msgr. John Cawley as a catechism center in 1923,
"La Iglesia de Maria Inmaculada" became a chapel on 762 Gladys
Avenue, between Seventh and Eighth Streets, in Los Angeles'
downtown industrial area. Bishop John Cantwell dedicated the
mission in October, 1931, and priests from St. Vibiana Cathedral
were sent to serve the Mexican families living in that section,
most of whom had fled the Calles religious persecution in
Mexico.
Surrounded by factories, the plain
brick chapel had plaster walls in a Spanish texture with a
ceiling of brown stained wood and seated about 360, besides
a hall and various smaller rooms. The first priest assigned
at the mission was Father Fidencio Esparza, who had also fled
persecution and came to the U.S. at age 14. His legendary
priestly career covered 60 years, 38 of them as pastor of
San Antonio de Padua Church in Boyle Heights. (Pope Pius XII
named him a monsignor in 1945).
"He
was a model parish priest," Cardinal Timothy Manning said
of him. "He didn't drive a car. He had no housekeeper. He
lived at the subsistence level of his people."
At the 25th anniversary of ordination in October 1956, Msgr. Esparza delivered the sermon at the High Mass celebrated by Father Theodore Shubsda, then a newly-ordained priest sent to serve with Msgr. Esparaza (as had Father William Johnson who, like Father Shubsda, later became bishops).
Another priest who served at the chapel
for several years was Father Thomas Peacha, now pastor of
Holy Trinity Church in Los Angeles, who remembers vividly
the old days and still keeps in touch with some of the old
families in the neighborhood.
"I
was serving at St. Vibiana Cathedral," he recalled, "but drove
every day to the small chapel for Mass. Of course Msgr. Esparza
took the street car and somehow managed to use one transfer
for the round trip."
Father Peacha recalls fondly the Orduno family who lived behind the church ("The wife, Virginia, took care of the chapel"); Alex Jacquart, "one of our main contributors, a really holy old man who owned several of the old apartment houses in the area"; and many parishioners who worked at the old train depot on Alameda.
"I believe La Inmaculda closed in the late '60s as the area became more industrialized," he noted. "But there were small houses originally that stood between the factories that produced a variety of products. Still today, some of the old families come back to visit the neighborhood."
EL
SANTO NINO CHAPEL
This
small mission chapel, dedicated in 1925 by Bishop John Cantwell,
was located at 1034 Effie Street in the original Chavez Ravine
area and served the working class residents nestled among
the hills overlooking the city. It was reached by driving
or walking up Bishops Road from Broadway near Elysian Park.
The steep Chavez Ravine canyon was originally named for a Mexican pioneer who served on the first County Board of Supervisors --- Julian Chavez, who lived in the area from 1810 to 1879. He was a landowner and one of seven council members who signed the first minutes of the Common Council in 1850, a document recorded entirely in Spanish.
The
land named for him became a potter's field in the late 1850s,
then the site of a smallpox infirmary in 1880s, still later
a tuberculosis sanitarium before the barrio was settled. Many
of the early residents kept goats and chickens in their yards
and one eccentric was known as the "cat lady" for the numerous
felines who lived in her house.
Serving this diverse and isolated community was a young German priest who spoke flawless Spanish, Claretian Father Thomas Matin, whose long sermons held the congregation spellbound. After Mass, crowds mingled in the hall enjoying food and conversation. Father Matin knew everyone by name, was an advocate for juveniles in trouble, and helped unite parishioners into a tightly-knit community.
By 1940 a kindergarten and day school was added close to the church. The Sisters of the Society of Mary taught religion, crafts and care for the children of working mothers. Bishop Cantwell blessed the new center on Sunday, Dec. 31, 1940.
But many of the families, who had
fled the persecution in Mexico and had found security in the
hills, would soon be further uprooted and eventually be identified
as Los Desterrados. After World War II a closer threat endangered
the area and El Santo Nino Church was closed in 1952 to make
room for a proposed Federal housing project that was never
developed.
Then
the whole area faced extinction when Walter O'Malley, a Brooklyn
lawyer who also happened to own a major league baseball team,
surveyed the site in the mid-1950s. Soon after, bulldozers
were knocking down the old homes to make room for Dodger Stadium.
Father Matin, while he shepherded the Effie Street chapel, had also opened San Conrado Mission in 1939 on isolated Solano Avenue just over the hill from the stadium. He returned there in 1959 and directed a new church building in 1967 and continued at that ministry until his death in 1975.
Many of the parishioners continue
praying to Father Matin in memory of all his efforts for the
"uprooted" and the poor. His burial site at San Gabriel Mission
remains a place of pilgrimage for those who remember the white
haired Padre Tomas, who lived with them and for them in Chavez
Ravine.
ST.
JOSEPH CHURCH
The
fourth church built in the young city of Los Angeles, St.
Joseph Church was founded in 1888. Bishop Francisco Mora had
established the parish for the German-speaking Catholics in
the area on Santee Street between 12th and Pico, when there
were more German immigrants in the city than English or Irish.
Travelers to L.A. from the Middle West could make the trip
for the train fare of one dollar.
The pastor was a Milwaukee diocesan priest, Father Florian Bartsch, who left three years later to become a Trappist monk. He was succeeded by Father A. Reidhaar who began the parochial school, and then the first of many Franciscan pastors, Father Victor Aertker, in 1893.
Initially a small frame building (70
by 32 feet), St. Joseph Church is best recalled as an imposing
red brick Gothic building at 12th and Los Angeles Streets
opened in 1903. The two external towers rose to a height of
175 feet and the interior consisted of three naves and seven
handsome altars. Father Victor, also an astute business man,
bought five adjacent lots, constructed the first school house,
built an auditorium and had the church almost debt free of
the building cost ($125,000) when it was dedicated.
On
the feast of St. Joseph, May 3, 1903, the Apostolic Delegate
to the United States, Archbishop Diomede Falconio performed
the ceremony (the first time a papal delegate dedicated a
church in the Western states). The pure Gothic style of the
edifice was the work of Franciscan Brothers Adrian Wewer and
Leonard Darscheid. By 1903 boundaries were set for the parish
and soon many other national minorities were attending all
the liturgies and services.
Besides the Franciscan pastors, one
of the most distinctive Brothers who spent 42 years at St.
Joseph was Leopold Penninger, a young Austrian who came to
Los Angeles in 1922. Noted for his agility and creativity,
he decorated the main altar for all major feasts by devising
chains of wire holders for strings of colored vigil lights
all the way to the top of the Gothic reredos (48 feet high).
Brother
Leopold also pulled the ropes that rang the huge bells and
often was lifted off his feet as the bells swung. Over the
years he trained a succession of German shepherd dogs to guard
the church at night; often times they would flush out a hidden
person in one of the confessionals. He died in 1964.
The Dominican Sisters started classes in 1892 and by 1907 Franciscan Sisters assumed educational duties. Many religious vocations followed as did liturgical music stalwarts, including the young Roger Wagner and Paul Salamunovich. The nearby Franciscan Communication Center produced radio and television programming, at one time headed by Capuchin Franciscan Father Anthony Scannell, now executive publisher of The Tidings
Eventually
the area and population drastically changed; the area is now
in the hub of the garment district. St. Joseph's heritage
and tradition was tragically lost, however, on Labor Day 1983
when fire swept through the classic wood building, leaving
only charred remains and burned memories. In an editorial
following the tragedy, Tidings editor Al Antczak wrote:
"St. Joseph's is gone now. It was our father's house…It is the lesson life. Temporal things pass away. The life of the spirit, formed and deepened at St. Joseph's, does not. That must be the legacy to our city."
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