In the Golden State, the word "mission" has a connotation all its own.
This year marks the 235th anniversary of the founding of the first of the California missions --- San Diego de Alcala --- by Spanish missionary priests; the 220th anniversary of the death of the missions' "godfather"; and the 200th anniversary year of one of those missions --- Santa Ines in Solvang (to be observed at a Mission Days Fiesta this weekend, and during a three-day grand celebration in September). With the summer vacation season still at hand, it is an opportune time to reflect on California's original Catholic treasures.
The start of California's mission era was draped in humility and sorrow. Under the direction of Gov. Gaspar de Portolá and Franciscan Friar Junípero Serra, a series of three ships and two land parties departed Mexico separately in the spring of 1769 heading north. Portola and Father Serra were in the second land party, arriving July 1, to discover that two of the three ships preceding them were in the harbor with crews "badly decimated by scurvy." The third ship was never heard from.
Father Serra --- by now well into his fifties, and suffering from chronic pain in his leg --- nonetheless pushed forward in establishing Catholic missions in this new territory to evangelize the native people, who were alternately frightened, angered and intrigued by the new visitors. To what extent they were also mistreated by the missionary parties is the subject of ongoing debate among historians and researchers; it is clear, however, that many were evangelized and were instrumental in making the missions succeed --- some more than others --- at least until Spain lost control of California to Mexico in 1821.
In 1834 the Mexican government began the "secularization" process that removed the missionary priests from California, and divided the lands primarily among the already-wealthy and influential. The Native Americans who had worked at the missions were sent away, to deal on their own with new settlers arriving from the growing United States.
After the U.S. won control of California from Mexico and established California as the 31st state in 1850, the missions were returned to the Catholic Church within the decade under presidential decrees. By this time, many were in sad state of neglect, disrepair and ruin, and it wasn't until the early 20th century that noticeable restoration began to take place.
Since then, individuals and agencies have worked to raise funds to restore the missions, as much as possible, to their original luster. And, in fact, nearly all of them remain active places of worship, many as functioning parishes in their respective dioceses.
Following are brief profiles of the missions located closest to the Los Angeles area, moving south to north. While each of the 21 can be accessed by car in a single day, the following 10 are within a three- to four-hour drive from most of greater Los Angeles --- good news for those of Huell Howser-like zeal (recall his enjoyable "California's Gold" trek to the missions on KCET several years ago). It is strongly urged that visitors call ahead to be certain of operating hours, tour availability, admission/donation fees and special events.
--- San Diego de Alcalá: Named for St. Didacus of Alcalá; founded July 16, 1769; located on what is now Presidio Hill overlooking Mission Valley; moved to one location, then another six miles inland after military-native American battles culminated in the burning and looting of the first site in 1776; occupied by U.S. Army (1850-62); restoration beginning in 1830s, now an active parish; Santa Isabel astencia ("sub-mission"), built in 1818 60 miles east, fell into ruin after secularization.
--- San Luis, Rey de Francia: Named for Louis IX, King of France (1215-1270); founded June 13, 1798, last mission founded by Fr. Lasuén; known as "King of the Missions," hailed as a "quick success" and perhaps the richest of all missions, due largely to the efforts of Fr. Antonio Peyri who stayed 34 years; home of California's first pepper tree; serves today as parish and retreat center; "mother church" of the only "sub-mission" in the chain, San Antonio de Pala, built 15 miles northeast, now a church ministering to Native Americans.
--- San Juan Capistrano: Named for St. John of Capistrano, Italy; founded Nov. 1, 1776, after being delayed a year by Indian attack; bells were buried in the ground prior to attack, and were discovered unharmed when Serra led second, successful founding effort; originally called "Jewel of the Missions," the most ornate and elaborate church ("The Great Stone Church") of all; destroyed in 1812 earthquake (which struck during Mass, killing 40) and never fully restored; surviving chapel is called Father Serra's Church, only building in the mission chain in which Fr. Serra is known to have celebrated Mass; famed for its returning swallows every March near St. Joseph's Day; site of much archaeological activity; modern church, adjacent to old mission site, is across street from train depot.
--- San Gabriel Arcángel: Named for the Archangel Gabriel; founded Sept. 8, 1771, the oldest Catholic institution in Los Angeles County; a stop-off point for numerous travelers from the eastern U.S.; known in its early days for its prosperity, producing more wheat than any other mission; mosque-like appearance of the church is believed to have been inspired by the Cathedral of Cordova (formerly a mosque) in Spain; church restoration completed in the mid-1990s after severe damage from 1987 Whittier earthquake; the original 10-mile walk in 1781 from the mission to what became the heart of the City of Los Angeles was re-created prior to the opening of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels in 2002.
--- San Fernando, Rey de España: Named for St. Ferdinand, King of Spain (1217-1252); founded Sept. 8, 1797; dominated by the largest convento (missionary quarters) of all the missions, also the largest adobe structure in California; damaged by 1812 earthquake and even more seriously by vandals; church floor was dug up in the 1830s in search of buried treasure after gold was found on a nearby rancho; sale of candles ($1 apiece) in the early 1900s by the Landmarks Club raised money to begin restoration work; more restoration took place after 1971 Sylmar quake damage; neighbor of Bishop Alemany High School, San Fernando Region Office and San Fernando Mission Cemetery (burial site of Bob Hope, Ritchie Valens and Chuck Connors, among other notables).
--- San Buenaventura: Named for St. Bonaventure; founded March 31, 1782 (Easter Sunday), the last mission founded by Fr. Serra; had been slated to be the third mission, but founding delayed in part by a lack of military escorts needed to help build the mission; original church burned, replaced by large stone church in 1809; two huge Norfolk Island pines in the garden between the church and adjacent museum are 100 years old, reputedly planted by a sailing captain who hoped to grow a forest for use as masts; currently one of the few parishes in the archdiocese with a weekly scheduled Tridentine Latin Mass (Sundays, 1:30 p.m.).
--- Santa Barbara: Named for St. Barbara, founded Dec. 4, 1786, the first founded by Fr. Fermín Lasuén, after Fr. Serra had been denied funding to build by Gov. Felipe de Neve; known as "Queen of the Missions"; original structure, completed in 1833, was the only mission with two towers; "extraordinary" water system, said to be the most elaborate of all the missions, is still used today by city of Santa Barbara; nearly destroyed by 1925 earthquake; 1927 rebuilding weakened by chemical reaction in materials, necessitating steel and concrete reinforcement.
--- Santa Inés: Named for St. Agnes; founded Sept. 17, 1804 by Fr. Estévan Tápis; called the "Hidden Gem of the Missions" for its setting amid valley and hills; built several miles from El Camino Real, had fewer visitors than other missions; backroom "ruse" by California's first Bishop, Francisco Garcia Diego, and "friendly" Gov. Micheltoreoa helped set aside land for Our Lady of Refuge Seminary, state's first, that Mexican government could not acquire; pastor and his niece led restoration efforts in early 1900s; home of well-regarded museum containing artifacts older than the mission.
--- La Purísima Concepción: Named for the "Immaculate Concepción of Mary the Most Pure"; founded Dec. 8, 1787 by Fr. Lasuén; served as headquarters of the missions during the tenure of Fr. Mariano Payeras as missions president; original building destroyed by two earthquakes in 1812 and an ensuing heavy rain; replacement structure was designed to resist future quakes, making it the only mission not built in a quadrangle; during secularization period, mission and lands were sold for $1,100 in 1845; Union Oil Co. donated mission and lands to State of California in 1933; now a historic park with no religious artifacts; the parish of La Purísima Concepción is located a few miles west in the city of Lompoc.
--- San Luis, Obispo de Tolosa: Named for St. Luis, bishop of Toulouse; founded Sept. 1, 1772; a large number of bears inhabited the region when the Portola expedition first came upon the area; fire-resistant Spanish-tile roofs, common in Spain, were manufactured first here and eventually used at all the missions, to protect from rain and "fire raids" by hostile native Americans; a New England steeple and white painted siding was once added to the church before a 1934 restoration to its original appearance. Editor's note: Material for this article was supplied by The Tidings archives, and by two excellent websites, The California Mission Site (www.californiamissions.com) and California Missions (http://missions.bgmm.com). |