| In the Golden State, the word "mission" has a connotation all its own.
This year marks the 235th anniversary of the founding of the first of the California missions --- San Diego de Alcala --- by Spanish missionary priests; the 220th anniversary of the death of the missions' "godfather"; and the 200th anniversary year of one of those missions --- Santa Ines in Solvang (to be observed at a Mission Days Fiesta this weekend, and during a three-day grand celebration in September). With the summer vacation season still at hand, it is an opportune time to reflect on California's original Catholic treasures.
The start of California's mission era was draped in humility and sorrow. Under the direction of Gov. Gaspar de Portolá and Franciscan Friar Junípero Serra, a series of three ships and two land parties departed Mexico separately in the spring of 1769 heading north. Portola and Father Serra were in the second land party, arriving July 1, to discover that two of the three ships preceding them were in the harbor with crews "badly decimated by scurvy." The third ship was never heard from.
Father
Serra --- by now well into his fifties, and suffering from
chronic pain in his leg --- nonetheless pushed forward in
establishing Catholic missions in this new territory to evangelize
the native people, who were alternately frightened, angered
and intrigued by the new visitors. To what extent they were
also mistreated by the missionary parties is the subject of
ongoing debate among historians and researchers; it is clear,
however, that many were evangelized and were instrumental
in making the missions succeed --- some more than others ---
at least until Spain lost control of California to Mexico
in 1821.
In 1834 the Mexican government began the "secularization" process that removed the missionary priests from California, and divided the lands primarily among the already-wealthy and influential. The Native Americans who had worked at the missions were sent away, to deal on their own with new settlers arriving from the growing United States.
After the U.S. won control of California from Mexico and established California as the 31st state in 1850, the missions were returned to the Catholic Church within the decade under presidential decrees. By this time, many were in sad state of neglect, disrepair and ruin, and it wasn't until the early 20th century that noticeable restoration began to take place.
Since then, individuals and agencies have worked to raise funds to restore the missions, as much as possible, to their original luster. And, in fact, nearly all of them remain active places of worship, many as functioning parishes in their respective dioceses.
Following are brief profiles of the missions located closest to the Los Angeles area, moving south to north. While each of the 21 can be accessed by car in a single day, the following 10 are within a three- to four-hour drive from most of greater Los Angeles --- good news for those of Huell Howser-like zeal (recall his enjoyable "California's Gold" trek to the missions on KCET several years ago). It is strongly urged that visitors call ahead to be certain of operating hours, tour availability, admission/donation fees and special events.
San
Diego de Alcalá: Named for St. Didacus of Alcalá;
founded July 16, 1769; located on what is now Presidio Hill
overlooking Mission Valley; moved to one location, then another
six miles inland after military-native American battles culminated
in the burning and looting of the first site in 1776; occupied
by U.S. Army (1850-62); restoration beginning in 1830s, now
an active parish; Santa Isabel astencia ("sub-mission"), built
in 1818 60 miles east, fell into ruin after secularization.
San
Luis, Rey de Francia: Named for Louis IX, King
of France (1215-1270); founded June 13, 1798, last mission
founded by Fr. Lasuén; known as "King of the Missions," hailed
as a "quick success" and perhaps the richest of all missions,
due largely to the efforts of Fr. Antonio Peyri who stayed
34 years; home of California's first pepper tree; serves today
as parish and retreat center; "mother church" of the only
"sub-mission" in the chain, San Antonio de Pala, built 15
miles northeast, now a church ministering to Native Americans.
San
Juan Capistrano: Named for St. John of Capistrano,
Italy; founded Nov. 1, 1776, after being delayed a year by
Indian attack; bells were buried in the ground prior to attack,
and were discovered unharmed when Serra led second, successful
founding effort; originally called "Jewel of the Missions,"
the most ornate and elaborate church ("The Great Stone Church")
of all; destroyed in 1812 earthquake (which struck during
Mass, killing 40) and never fully restored; surviving chapel
is called Father Serra's Church, only building in the mission
chain in which Fr. Serra is known to have celebrated Mass;
famed for its returning swallows every March near St. Joseph's
Day; site of much archaeological activity; modern church,
adjacent to old mission site, is across street from train
depot.
San
Gabriel Arcángel: Named for the Archangel Gabriel;
founded Sept. 8, 1771, the oldest Catholic institution in
Los Angeles County; a stop-off point for numerous travelers
from the eastern U.S.; known in its early days for its prosperity,
producing more wheat than any other mission; mosque-like appearance
of the church is believed to have been inspired by the Cathedral
of Cordova (formerly a mosque) in Spain; church restoration
completed in the mid-1990s after severe damage from 1987 Whittier
earthquake; the original 10-mile walk in 1781 from the mission
to what became the heart of the City of Los Angeles was re-created
prior to the opening of the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels
in 2002.
San
Fernando, Rey de España: Named for St. Ferdinand,
King of Spain (1217-1252); founded Sept. 8, 1797; dominated
by the largest convento (missionary quarters) of all the missions,
also the largest adobe structure in California; damaged by
1812 earthquake and even more seriously by vandals; church
floor was dug up in the 1830s in search of buried treasure
after gold was found on a nearby rancho; sale of candles ($1
apiece) in the early 1900s by the Landmarks Club raised money
to begin restoration work; more restoration took place after
1971 Sylmar quake damage; neighbor of Bishop Alemany High
School, San Fernando Region Office and San Fernando Mission
Cemetery (burial site of Bob Hope, Ritchie Valens and Chuck
Connors, among other notables).
San
Buenaventura: Named for St. Bonaventure; founded
March 31, 1782 (Easter Sunday), the last mission founded by
Fr. Serra; had been slated to be the third mission, but founding
delayed in part by a lack of military escorts needed to help
build the mission; original church burned, replaced by large
stone church in 1809; two huge Norfolk Island pines in the
garden between the church and adjacent museum are 100 years
old, reputedly planted by a sailing captain who hoped to grow
a forest for use as masts; currently one of the few parishes
in the archdiocese with a weekly scheduled Tridentine Latin
Mass (Sundays, 1:30 p.m.).
Santa
Barbara: Named for St. Barbara, founded Dec. 4,
1786, the first founded by Fr. Fermín Lasuén, after Fr. Serra
had been denied funding to build by Gov. Felipe de Neve; known
as "Queen of the Missions"; original structure, completed
in 1833, was the only mission with two towers; "extraordinary"
water system, said to be the most elaborate of all the missions,
is still used today by city of Santa Barbara; nearly destroyed
by 1925 earthquake; 1927 rebuilding weakened by chemical reaction
in materials, necessitating steel and concrete reinforcement.

Santa
Inés: Named for St. Agnes; founded
Sept. 17, 1804 by Fr. Estévan Tápis; called the "Hidden Gem
of the Missions" for its setting amid valley and hills; built
several miles from El Camino Real, had fewer visitors than
other missions; backroom "ruse" by California's first Bishop,
Francisco Garcia Diego, and "friendly" Gov. Micheltoreoa helped
set aside land for Our Lady of Refuge Seminary, state's first,
that Mexican government could not acquire; pastor and his
niece led restoration efforts in early 1900s; home of well-regarded
museum containing artifacts older than the mission.
La
Purísima Concepción: Named for the "Immaculate
Concepción of Mary the Most Pure"; founded Dec. 8, 1787 by
Fr. Lasuén; served as headquarters of the missions during
the tenure of Fr. Mariano Payeras as missions president; original
building destroyed by two earthquakes in 1812 and an ensuing
heavy rain; replacement structure was designed to resist future
quakes, making it the only mission not built in a quadrangle;
during secularization period, mission and lands were sold
for $1,100 in 1845; Union Oil Co. donated mission and lands
to State of California in 1933; now a historic park with no
religious artifacts; the parish of La Purísima Concepción
is located a few miles west in the city of Lompoc.
San
Luis, Obispo de Tolosa: Named for St. Luis, bishop
of Toulouse; founded Sept. 1, 1772; a large number of bears
inhabited the region when the Portola expedition first came
upon the area; fire-resistant Spanish-tile roofs, common in
Spain, were manufactured first here and eventually used at
all the missions, to protect from rain and "fire raids" by
hostile native Americans; a New England steeple and white
painted siding was once added to the church before a 1934
restoration to its original appearance.
Editor's note: Material for this article was supplied by The Tidings archives, and by two excellent websites, The California Mission Site (www.californiamissions.com) and California Missions (http://missions.bgmm.com).
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